Hiking; I put one foot in front of the other, embraced by nature, hour after hour, day after day. I step in to the present moment, living with the trinity of my physical body, the landscape and the weather. It is solace for my soul.

In August of 2023 I took the night train from Central Sweden to Ritsem, just north of the Polar Circle (66.57N 17.43E), to hike the Pajelanta Trail.

It was my first long hike by myself. I had ten days to complete 140 kilometers.

The Pajelanta National Park is a majestic wilderness of high mountains, primeval forest, vast wetlands, glaciers and a system of lakes and rivers.

It is one of the last sites in the world where indigenous people, the Saami, live and follow the seasonal movements of the reindeer. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site 1996.

Day 1, August 4, 4 km

I arrive at Ritsem after a 27-hour journey of trains and busses. The last ferry of the day is waiting and 5 hikers and two Saamis are on board, loading backpacks and provisions onto the deck. The boat takes us across the A’hka’ja’vrre lake under grey skies to the Pajelanta trail head.

Stepping off the boat I shoulder my 40-pound backpack and walk past a few Saami houses. A mile later I pass the Akka lodge that offers simple lodging and a place to camp. I continue past gnarly Mountain Birch and low Willow. The peak of Akka rises to the south hiding her head in the clouds. Breathing in the scent of Heather and dirt I feel free and happy.

I walk toward. Vuojädno, a glacial river, thundering in the distance.  By the time I cross the swaying hanging-bridge to the other side it is past 8. It has been a long day and I am tired and hungry.

The sun sets around 10:30 pm., and I have plenty of time to I pitch my tent, and heat a bag of lentil soup. I am proud to have gotten this far and pleased to have begun my adventure.